What to Expect: Roger Gibbs wrote this account of a day we spent together for the Oread MC Newsletter.

Finally the weather looked vaguely o.k. after weeks of delays. So the big day was here and it was off to Stoney (gulp!) to meet Adrian Berry (gulp! gulp!) for some coaching and some terror. He was very relaxed and it seemed a lot like going climbing with a mate, but I was paying for the privilege!

I suggested Mani and Padme as suitable warm ups but that wall was very wet so we walked further along and I got on Little Capucin, HVS 5a. This turned out to be really good climbing. It had some small loose bits but absolutely no polish. I thought it was hard for the grade, especially the lower wall but a good sideways wire protects. I felt I was climbing o.k. and Adrian said little apart from commenting that the route was good and hard for the grade – certainly E1 and borderline E2. It was nice to have my feelings confirmed – I needed all the confidence I could get for the day ahead! We discussed tactics and pointers on gear while abbing off – it’s remarkable what you can learn even after years in the game.

The sun was drying the crag nicely now so we headed up to Windy Ledge for Scoop Wall. This is very top end E2 in my opinion (I had seconded a strong climber who had struggled to lead it a couple of years earlier). It also sported some worrying wet patches but the gear was good and Adrian oozed confidence. The first half went fine with encouragement (and some tips on ropework) from below. I had to grit my teeth and hang in there a bit at the top where some seepage meant I had to do some harder moves to stay dry. This was a big confidence boost but I could feel I'd been working.

Coach reckoned I’d had been cruising so far, so he needed to push me to reveal some weaknesses (there are plenty after all!) He suggested Pickpocket (E4) mentioning long reaches and good gear – he was talking my language! The start was a shock – low wires and a poor cam. I was not happy. Using my newly learnt tactics I reversed to the ground and tested the gear. With the cam back on my harness and a bigger scowl on my face I set off again. I got the bomber wire in – relief! But I was soon back on the ground with my arms pumped solid. Third or fourth go saw me crack the crux and onto more amenable ground on the ramp. More gear and pulpy forearms. Some familiar faces appeared with encouraging words but my fingers uncurled (really? Or just in my mind?) I was off. It felt like I was failing.

Adrian was priceless at this point. Full of confidence, full of motivation – do you really want to do all this work and still not get the route? He was my conscience – “You’ve fallen off but you can still get it as clean as possible.” More tactical discussion and a break. I was shocked at how late in the day it was and frankly I was knackered.

I set off again with some wise words in my head – “Keep your eyes on the prize – you’ve really got to want it”. The crux felt easy. The pump was pressing but I knew I could do this. Into the steepest section and through to better holds. Runner on. One move to easy ground. Breath. Feet! Feet! A ledge you could camp on. Congratulations float up from the ground.

“You made that look easy.”

“How does that feel?”

Only the best feeling the world.

I have been climbing on and off for twenty years but I think I learnt more in one day than in the previous twenty years. Insights into climbing physiology and training, tips on tactics and technique, pointers on gear and a boat load of motivation. Bring on the summer!

It might not be everybody's cup of tea, being pushed this hard, but if you want to improve I can't think of a better way.

A word of warning – I have never been so physically and mentally spanked as after this day out on the rock!